Collagen has become a staple of skincare advertising and social media wellness trends. But it is not just a buzzword.
It is the most abundant protein in the body and helps support structures throughout the body, including skin and bone.
For women, collagen loss can become especially noticeable during perimenopause and menopause. Some studies suggest that skin collagen may fall by as much as 30% in the first five years after menopause, with further losses of around 2% a year after that. On social media, this is sometimes called the “collagen cliff”, but the underlying idea is not new. Researchers have been writing about the effects of menopause on skin for decades, with papers from at least the 1940s pointing to the connection.
This sharper drop happens on top of the gradual changes that come with ageing. Collagen appears to decline over time, with some estimates suggesting a fall of around 1–1.5% a year from early adulthood.
Oestrogen helps regulate many processes in the body, including the production of collagen. In animal studies, oestrogen has been shown to increase collagen production and skin thickness. Human research has also found benefits for skin thickness, elasticity and wound healing.
This is partly because oestrogen acts on fibroblasts, the cells responsible for making collagen in the skin. When oestrogen levels fall during perimenopause and menopause, this signalling becomes weaker. The result is less collagen being produced, along with thinner skin, reduced elasticity and lower water content.
Collagen loss cannot be stopped entirely, but some factors can speed it up. One of the most important is ultraviolet radiation from the sun and tanning beds. This increases enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases, which act like the skin’s demolition crew, breaking down structural proteins such as collagen. These enzymes are found at higher levels in skin that has been damaged by the sun.
Ultraviolet radiation reduces the amount of new collagen that fibroblasts produce. People with darker skin tones tend to show less wrinkling, probably in part because higher melanin levels offer some protection against ultraviolet damage. But darker skin is not immune to photo-ageing, which means skin ageing caused by sun exposure.
Smoking appears to accelerate collagen loss. One study found that smoking reduced skin production of type I and type III collagen by 18% and 22% respectively, contributing to premature ageing of the skin.
Vitamin C is essential for collagen production. Around 100mg per day is enough for most adults, although smokers may need more. Many wellness supplements provide much larger doses, often around 1,000mg a day, but more is not necessarily better; around 2,000mg a day causes unpleasant gastrointestinal issues.
Products that claim to boost collagen are increasingly popular, but the evidence behind them is mixed. Topical collagen creams are unlikely to replace collagen lost from the skin because intact collagen molecules are too large to get through the skin barrier. They may help moisturise the outer layers of the skin, but they are unlikely to make a major difference to the skin’s own collagen levels.
Oral collagen supplements have been linked in some studies to improvements in skin hydration and elasticity. However, the scientific literature remains mixed. Reviews point to limitations in the evidence, including small study sizes, potential conflicts of interest and inconsistent findings, leading researchers to urge caution when interpreting the results. In the same way that collagen can’t be absorbed through the skin, the body has to digest it to absorb the amino acids that make collagen and there is no way to ensure the amino acids that made that collagen go to the skin or wherever you hoped it would. Hydrolysed collagen is better for absorption but there is still no guarantee that the body uses it where you want it to.
Hormone replacement therapy may offer more consistent benefits. As well as helping with other symptoms of menopause, HRT has been shown in some studies to improve skin thickness, elasticity and hydration. One study reported that women receiving HRT had a 48% increase in skin collagen content compared with untreated women, and other studies have reported similar trends. Some evidence suggests that transdermal (through-the-skin) oestrogen may also have measurable effects on skin collagen. But the overall risks and benefits of HRT always need to be considered on an individual basis.
Some dermatologists and cosmetic practitioners also use procedures designed to stimulate collagen production. Laser resurfacing treatments aim to trigger repair processes in the skin and remove damaged collagen. Newer versions of these treatments are designed to reduce side effects.
Microneedling is another commonly suggested option, although it is not risk free. Potential complications include pain, bruising, bleeding, infection, changes in skin colour, and in rare cases abnormal growths. It can also cause hyperpigmentation, which means patches of skin become darker than the surrounding area.
By the time menopause begins, collagen has usually already been declining for years. Protecting the skin from ultraviolet damage, avoiding smoking and getting enough vitamin C may help support the body’s natural collagen levels.
Menopause may speed up collagen loss, but the picture is more complex than social media slogans suggest. While collagen supplements remain popular, the science behind them is still developing. HRT has a clearer scientific basis for improving skin thickness, elasticity and hydration in some women, although it is not suitable for everyone. When it comes to collagen, the science is more helpful than the hype.
Adam Taylor does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organisation that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.
