From Ancient Elegance to Modern Dilemmas: Exploring Corporate Responsibility in the Leather Industry

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*** This article authored by Tereza Lomickova examines the historical evolution and contemporary challenges of the global leather sector. Tracing leather’s origins from prehistoric protection to its role as a status symbol in ancient civilizations, the article highlights significant advancements in tanning and craftsmanship through various eras, including the Industrial Revolution’s impact on mass production. Today, the leather industry is a substantial economic force valued at approximately $240 billion, celebrated for its durability, aesthetics, and sustainability as a by-product of the meat industry. However, the article shifts focus to the industry’s ethical and environmental issues, such as animal welfare abuses, extensive environmental degradation from cattle ranching and toxic tanning processes, and poor labor conditions in developing countries. It underscores the lack of transparency in supply chains, which hinders accountability and informed consumer choices. Exploring alternatives, the article discusses synthetic and natural vegan leathers, addressing their benefits and limitations. Concluding, it calls for enhanced corporate responsibility through ethical sourcing, sustainable practices, and stringent regulations, while encouraging consumers to support sustainable options like second-hand leather goods. The narrative emphasizes the need for a balanced approach to preserve leather’s legacy while addressing modern ethical and environmental concerns. ***

Leather and its implications

This article has been authored by Tereza Lomickova, an LLM Candidate at Manchester Law School.

Leather then and now

If we are to speak about the evolution of mankind using different ages, we can say that almost for as long as human-like beings have been living on planet Earth, there is one age that still has not passed – the age of leather. Emerging in prehistoric times as a by-product of hunting, leather swiftly became essential for protection against the elements.[1] From the Neanderthals to ancient civilisations, the evolution of leather crafting has been significant.[2]

Initially, preservation techniques like salting, oiling, and smoking were stumbled upon, leading to the discovery of tanning.[3] This process, which transforms animal hides into durable leather, progressed over generations and was initially passed down through familial lines.[4]

As civilisations advanced, the diversity of leather goods increased. From shoes and military equipment in the Bronze Age to manuscripts in ancient Egypt, the use of leather broadened.[5] It became a symbol of status in Rome and an integral part of battlefield attire in Greece.[6] Despite scarcity in the Middle Ages, artisans continued to craft leather for saddles and armour, highlighting its resilience as a material.[7] The Industrial Revolution propelled leather into mass production.[8] As the Victorian Era approached, vegetable tanning was forsaken for chrome tanning which made the leather softer and more flexible.[9]

Today, the global leather industry is a formidable economic force, valued at approximately 240 billion US dollars and poised for further growth.[10] Its enduring popularity stems from its historical significance and unique characteristics[11]. Unlike synthetic materials, leather ages gracefully, promoting the ethos of slow fashion “buy less, buy better[12].” Each leather product is unique, easily maintained, and if needed, repairable, contributing to its longevity[13]. Praised for its breathability, it prevents discomfort by allowing airflow, making it a preferred choice for various applications.[14] As a symbol of status, leather finds its place in a diverse array of products, from fashion and furniture to car and aircraft interiors.[15] Moreover, as a natural by-product, it offers a sustainable solution for utilising resources from the meat industry.[16]

What is wrong with leather?

As aforementioned, there are many positive attributes of leather such as its durability, luxurious nature, and timeless appeal. However, as the focus of this article transitions, the adverse aspects associated with leather production and use will now be examined. This shift in narrative will shed light on animal welfare, environmental concerns, human rights violations, and supply chain (non)transparency, linked to the leather industry, providing a comprehensive understanding of its problematic facets.

Firstly, the primary ethical concern associated with leather production lies in its utilisation of animal skins, sourced from a variety of species including cows, sheep, pigs, goats, and exotic animals like crocodiles and ostriches, as well as domestic pets such as dogs in some countries.[17] However, the objective of this discourse is not to engage in a debate regarding the moral rights and wrongs of using animals for food, fashion, or entertainment, nor to advocate for specific lifestyle choices such as veganism. Rather, it aims to elucidate ethical considerations regarding the treatment of animals and the methodologies employed in their slaughter within the leather industry.[18] This concern coincides with the prevalent absence of animal welfare legislation in the countries from which the majority of leather originates, notably regions such as China and India, where if regulated, enforcement is often lacking.[19]

In 2021, China accounted for approximately 30% of the global value of the exported leather goods, making it the leading exporter in the world.[20] India contributed significantly less, approximately 3% of the worldwide export value.[21] However, it is still among the top 6 worldwide exporters.[22] Instances of significant cruelty towards animals, such as tail-breaking and the application of chilli into eyes to induce movement are present in these countries and underscore the ethical quandaries inherent in leather production.[23] The reason behind this behaviour lies within the missing nationwide laws strictly prohibiting the mistreatment of animals.[24]

Exploiting lax regulatory frameworks, companies within the leather industry frequently procure materials from such regions at reduced costs, prioritising profit maximisation. For instance, cheap leather from China is obtained from stray dogs who are subjected to blunt force trauma to the head and left crying in agony for hours while waiting to be bludgeoned to death while still conscious and then skinned for various leather products just like all the other dogs around them.[25] The finished products are later sold to unaware customers.[26] Another example comes from the renowned brand Hermès which has faced scrutiny for sourcing leather from crocodiles subjected to abhorrent conditions on African factory farms, where they endure confinement in cramped enclosures and are subjected to inhumane skinning practices while still conscious.[27] These animals are farmed for the sole purpose of obtaining leather, therefore also not following the idea that leather is a by-product of the meat industry.

In contrast to the concerning practices of countries with weak animal welfare regulations, nations like Austria, Switzerland and New Zealand are known for their high farm animal welfare standards and boast comprehensive legislation that mandates humane treatment throughout an animal’s life, from farm to slaughter, ensuring minimal suffering and promoting their overall well-being.[28] These three countries also export leather.[29] however, their export volume is significantly smaller due to higher production costs.[30] These elevated costs are associated with higher labour wages, stringent regulatory compliance, and additional expenses related to ensuring improved living conditions for the animals.[31]

Secondly, the leather industry casts a long shadow on the environment. Large-scale cattle ranching, a key source of hides for leather, fuels a vicious cycle of environmental harm.[32] These herds contribute heavily to greenhouse gas emissions, with methane released from their digestive systems trapping significant heat in the atmosphere and accelerating climate change.[33] Furthermore, to create more grazing land for these animals, swathes of forests are cleared, leading to deforestation, habitat loss, and a decline in biodiversity. This destruction disrupts ecosystems and threatens countless species.[34] Companies like Coach, H&M, Prada, LVHM, and others have been linked to Amazon Forest deforestation through their supply chains.[35] But the environmental impact doesn’t stop there. Traditional tanning methods often rely heavily on chemicals like chromium to preserve and soften the hides.[36] These chemicals, if not disposed of responsibly, can seep into waterways, contaminating rivers and streams.[37] This polluted water can have devastating consequences for aquatic life.[38] Speaking of water, the tanning process uses up to 200 tons of water for every ton of hides processed.[39]

Last, but not least, leather production can cause serious harm to people involved in the tanning process, as well as those living near tanneries. Workers in tanneries, often located in developing countries, are exposed to dangerous chemicals like chromium, arsenic, and formaldehyde without proper safety measures.[40] This can lead to a range of health problems, including respiratory illnesses, skin diseases, and even cancer.[41] Leather production can also be dangerous due to lax safety standards in tanneries, which can result in injuries and even death.[42] Not to mention the low wages and long working hours the employees are subject to.[43] The chemicals also pollute waterways, harming the health of surrounding communities that rely on the water for drinking or washing.[44] Studies have documented these issues in countries like Bangladesh, where the leather industry is a major source of employment.[45] Brands like Zara, Puma, Tomy Hilfiger, and Mango are known to source their leather garments from India.[46]

Hand in hand with the problems mentioned above goes the fact that the leather supply chain is not very transparent. It was reported that the vast majority of companies do not provide information about suppliers beyond the first tier of their supply chain, such as tanneries.[47] There are even retailers that do not disclose the manufacturers of end-products, for example, Michael Kors, Nike, Versace, and Chanel.[48] Lack of transparency regarding the origins of raw materials makes it challenging to ascertain the living conditions of animals and the specific animal species used for leather production.[49] Consequently, consumers cannot make informed choices, and companies evade accountability for their practices. This opacity conceals not only animal cruelty but also environmental harm and labour violations, shielding them from public awareness.[50]

What are the alternatives?

Due to the controversial nature of leather, some people look for alternatives. The first alternative under consideration is commonly referred to as artificial leather, alternatively termed synthetic leather or faux leather.[51] It is crafted from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyurethane (PU), and/or polyamide, materials mostly known as plastic.[52] A notable advantage of artificial leather lies in its non-utilisation of animal hides, thereby deflecting concerns related to animal welfare violations. The popularity of synthetic leather is underpinned by its aesthetic appeal similar to real leather, resilience against external aggressions, and notably, its low cost.[53] However, it is imperative to recognise that the constituents employed in faux leather fabrication originate from fossil fuel sources[54] and often incorporate hormone-disrupting phthalates, presenting pronounced toxicity concerns.[55] Furthermore, the eventual degradation of these materials yields microplastic particulates that infiltrate marine ecosystems, terrestrial habitats, and potentially, human physiological systems.[56] Concurrently, the production processes associated with faux leather entail occupational hazards for labourers, who endure prolonged exposure to hazardous chemicals, thus posing significant risks to their health and well-being.[57] Also, the durability of artificial leather cannot compare to conventional leather as it is not as resistant to everyday wear and tear.[58]

Additionally, natural vegan leather alternatives emerge as a viable option for individuals who do not wish to support plastic-derived leather products while also obviating the need for animal exploitation. Natural leather can be sourced from varied botanical origins such as pineapple leaves (Piñatex), mushrooms (Mylo, MuSkin), fermented sugar and yeast (Bio-Tex), cacti (Desserto’s cactus leather), and apples (Leap), among others.[59] Despite manifesting substantially superior ecological credentials relative to faux leather, it is important to acknowledge that natural vegan leather formulations may still incorporate plastics and lack complete biodegradability.[60] However, optimistic conjecture exists, regarding the prospective ascendancy of mushroom, cactus, and apple-derived “leathers” as the material of choice in the foreseeable future.[61] Presently, their availability on a large scale remains limited, with associated cost considerations compared to artificial leather.[62] Nevertheless, as with all fashion purchases, the most advisable practice for consumers is to procure leather goods from second-hand stores. This practice is the only 100 % sustainable and ethical option as it does not involve the production of new products and reduces waste, minimising environmental impact.[63]

Conclusion

The intricate narrative surrounding leather unveils a tale of enduring popularity intertwined with ethical and environmental repercussions. While leather boasts undeniable advantages in terms of durability, aesthetics, and natural breathability, its production casts a long shadow on animal welfare, the environment, and human health.

Empowered by this knowledge, consumers can leverage their purchasing power to advocate for positive change. However, informed customers represent merely a single piece of the puzzle. The ultimate responsibility lies with corporations within the leather industry. They must prioritise ethical sourcing, sustainable practices, and robust regulations. Only through a concerted effort, encompassing both consumer awareness and corporate accountability, can the future of leather be one that aligns with environmental well-being, animal welfare, and responsible social practices.

References

[1] Baptiste Pesanti, ‘A Brief Story of Leather | History, Types, Functions & Alternatives’ (Eiken Shop, 3 May 2020) <https://eikenshop.com/en-gb/blogs/leather-guide/leather-history-guide#H1> accessed 6 April 2024.

[2] Ibid.

[3] Meryl Seigman, ‘The History of Leather and It’s Fascinating Story’ (Is It Leather?, 17 June 2023) <https://isitleather.com/blog/the-fascinating-history-of-leather/> accessed 6 April 2024.

[4] Camilla Shep, ‘A Brief History of Leather’ (MAHI Leather, 3 March 2017) <https://mahileather.com/blogs/news/a-brief-history-of-leather> accessed 6 April 2024.

[5] Meryl Seigman, ‘The History of Leather and It’s Fascinating Story’ (Is It Leather?, 17 June 2023) <https://isitleather.com/blog/the-fascinating-history-of-leather/> accessed 6 April 2024.

[6] ibid.

[7] ibid.

[8] ibid.

[9] ibid.

[10] United Nations Industrial Development Organization, ‘Future Trends in the World Leather and Leather Products Industry and Trade’ (2010) <https://leatherpanel.org/sites/default/files/publications-attachments/future_trends_in_the_world_leather_and_leather_products_industry_and_trade.pdf>.

Grand View Research, ‘Leather Goods Market Size & Share | Global Industry Report, 2019-2025’ <https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/leather-goods-market> accessed 25 June 2024.

[11] Leather Naturally Association ‘The Benefits of Leather’ (Leather Naturally) <https://www.leathernaturally.org/resources/fact-sheets/benefits-of-leather/> accessed 9 April 2024.

[12] ibid.

[13] ibid.

[14] ibid.

[15] ibid.

[16] United Nations Industrial Development Organization, ‘Leather Panel – Home’ (leatherpanel.org, 2022) <https://www.leatherpanel.org/> accessed 9 April 2024.

[17] PETA, ‘Animals Used for Clothing | PETA’ (PETA, 17 February 2011) <https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/> accessed 9 April 2024.

[18] PETA, ‘The Leather Industry | PETA’ (PETA, 22 June 2010) <https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/leather-industry/> accessed 6 April 2024.

[19] Ibid.

[20] Statista, ‘Leather Goods: Export Value Share by Country Worldwide’ (statista.com, December 2022) <https://www.statista.com/statistics/768345/leather-goods-distribution-exports-value-by-country-world/> accessed 25 June 2024.

[21] ibid.

[22] ibid.

[23] PETA, ‘The Leather Industry | PETA’ (PETA, 22 June 2010) <https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/leather-industry/> accessed 6 April 2024.

[24] PETA, ‘14 Things the Leather Industry Doesn’t Want You to See ’ (peta.org, 16 September 2014) <https://www.peta.org/features/leather-industry/> accessed 26 June 2024.

[25] PETA, ‘Dogs Bludgeoned and Killed in Leather Industry’ (PETA, Exposés and Undercover Investigations) <https://investigations.peta.org/china-dog-leather/> accessed 26 June 2024.

[26] ibid.

[27] PETA, ‘Exposed: Crocodiles and Alligators Factory-Farmed for Hermès “Luxury” Goods’ (PETA Investigations, 2014) <https://investigations.peta.org/crocodile-alligator-slaughter-hermes/> accessed 9 April 2024.

[28] The Federal Council, ‘Animal Welfare’ (www.blv.admin.ch 10 April 2024) <https://www.blv.admin.ch/blv/en/home/tiere/tierschutz.html> accessed 25 June 2024.

World Animal Protection, ‘Animal Protection Index – Austria’ (api.worldanimalprotection.org) <https://api.worldanimalprotection.org/country/austria> accessed 25 June 2024.

Animal Welfare Act 1999 No 142 (as at 09 May 2021) (www.legislation.govt.nz).

[29] The Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC), ‘Leather Apparel in Austria’ (oec.world) <https://oec.world/en/profile/bilateral-product/leather-apparel/reporter/aut> accessed 25 June 2024.

Centre for the Promotion of Imports from developing countries (CBI), ‘The European Market Potential for Leather Bags | CBI’ (www.cbi.eu 5 July 2022) <https://www.cbi.eu/market-information/apparel/leather-bags/market-potential> accessed 25 June 2024.

The Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC), ‘Leather Apparel in New Zealand’ (oec.world) <https://oec.world/en/profile/bilateral-product/leather-apparel/reporter/nzl> accessed 25 June 2024.

[30] Selina Wamucii, ‘New Zealand Leather Prices’ (selinawamucii.com) <https://www.selinawamucii.com/insights/prices/new-zealand/leather/> accessed 26 June 2024.

Selina Wamucii, ‘India Leather Prices’ (selinawamucii.com) <https://www.selinawamucii.com/insights/prices/india/leather/>.

[31] ibid.

[32] PETA, ‘Environmental Hazards of Leather ’ (PETA, 22 June 2010) <https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/leather-industry/leather-environmental-hazards/> accessed 11 April 2024.

[33] ibid.

[34] Ibid.

[35] Stand Research Group, ‘Nowhere to Hide: How the Fashion Industry Is Linked to Amazon Rainforest Destruction’ (stand.earth, 29 November 2021) <https://stand.earth/resources/nowhere-to-hide-how-the-fashion-industry-is-linked-to-amazon-rainforest-destruction/> accessed 11 April 2024.

[36] Xiaowei Chen and others, ‘Sustainable Supply Chain Management in the Leather Industry: A Systematic Literature Review’ (2022) 26 International Journal of Logistics Research and Applications 1 <https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/13675567.2022.2104233> accessed 11 April 2024.

[37] ibid.

[38] ibid.

[39] Terrence Kelleman, ‘The Dark Side of Leather: Exploring the Environmental Impact of a Fashion Staple’ (Mighty Wallet, 6 April 2023) <https://mightywallet.shop/blogs/news/the-dark-side-of-leather-exploring-the-environmental-impact-of-a-fashion-staple> accessed 11 April 2024.

[40] Emma Hakansson, ‘Here’s Why Leather Harms People, Not Only Animals’ (Vegan Style, 8 November 2022) <https://veganstyle.com.au/blogs/news/heres-why-leather-harms-people-not-only-animals> accessed 12 April 2024.

[41] SubodhKumar Rastogi, Amit Pandey and Sachin Tripathi, ‘Occupational Health Risks among the Workers Employed in Leather Tanneries at Kanpur’ (2008) 12 Indian Journal of Occupational and Environmental Medicine 132.

[42] Human Rights Watch, ‘Bangladesh: Toxic Tanneries’ (www.youtube.com, 9 October 2012) <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kT3xjfxMmoc&t=215s> accessed 12 April 2024.

[43] SOMO, ‘Luxury Brands Must Reveal the Origin of Their Leather Goods’ (SOMO, 3 November 2022) <https://www.somo.nl/luxury-brands-must-reveal-the-origin-of-their-leather-goods/> accessed 12 April 2024.

[44] Daniel Lanteigne, ‘Colours of Water: Bangladesh’s Leather Tanneries – Our World’ (ourworld.unu.edu, 5 December 2010) <https://ourworld.unu.edu/en/colours-of-water-bangladeshs-leather-tanneries> accessed 12 April 2024.

[45] Human Rights Watch, ‘Bangladesh: Tanneries Harm Workers, Poison Communities’ (Human Rights Watch, 8 October 2012) <https://www.hrw.org/news/2012/10/08/bangladesh-tanneries-harm-workers-poison-communities> accessed 12 April 2024.

[46] Libby MacCarthy, ‘ICN Calls on Major Brands to Address Exploitation in Indian Leather Industry’ (Sustainable Brands, 2 December 2018) <https://sustainablebrands.com/read/leadership/icn-calls-on-major-brands-to-address-exploitation-in-indian-leather-industry> accessed 12 April 2024.

[47] texfash, ‘Supply Chain Transparency Is Dramatically Low in Leather Industry, Says Report’ (texfash.com, 12 October 2022) <https://texfash.com/update/supply-chain-transparency-is-dramatically-low-in-leather-industry-says-report> accessed 11 April 2024.

[48] Together for Decent Leather, ‘Transparency in the Leather Supply Chain – 100 Companies Analysed ’ (Together for Decent Leather, June 2022) <https://togetherfordecentleather.org/home/leather-supply-chain-transparency/> accessed 12 April 2024.

[49] Brad Jackson, ‘The Need for Transparency in Leather Labels-Why We Deserve the Truth – Is It Leather?’ (Is It Leather?, 29 September 2023) <https://isitleather.com/blog/transparency-in-leather-labels/> accessed 11 April 2024.

[50] ibid.

[51] Baptiste Pesanti, ‘A Brief Story of Leather | History, Types, Functions & Alternatives’ (Eiken Shop, 3 May 2020) <https://eikenshop.com/en-gb/blogs/leather-guide/leather-history-guide#H1> accessed 12 April 2024.

[52] ibid.

[53] ibid.

[54] Denise Ramos, ‘Analysing the Pros and Cons of Vegan Leather’ (earth.org, 29 June 2023) <https://earth.org/analysing-the-pros-and-cons-of-vegan-leather/> accessed 12 April 2024.

[55] Linnea Harris, ‘The Future of Leather: How Pineapple Leaves, Cacti, and Mycelium Are Revolutionizing the Industry’ (World Economic Forum, 20 July 2022) <https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2022/07/leather-plants-industry-climate-sustainability/> accessed 12 April 2024.

[56] ibid.

[57] Jasmine Mayhead, ‘What Is Vegan Leather, and Is Vegan Leather Sustainable?’ (ethicalmadeeasy.com) <https://ethicalmadeeasy.com/is-vegan-leather-actually-better-for-the-environment/> accessed 12 April 2024.

[58] Damoy Robertson, ‘Vegan Leather: What Is It? 10 Things You Need to Know’ (The Vegan Review, 17 November 2021) <https://www.theveganreview.com/vegan-leather-what-is-it-10-things-you-need-to-know/> accessed 12 April 2024.

[59] Isobella Wolfe, ‘Leaves, Mushrooms, Bark and More: 8 Innovative Eco-Friendly Leather Alternatives’ (Good On You, 8 March 2020) <https://goodonyou.eco/eco-friendly-leather-alternatives/> accessed 12 April 2024.

[60] Annick Ireland, ‘What Is Vegan Leather Made of – and Is It Sustainable?’ (Immaculate Vegan, 1 March 2023) <https://immaculatevegan.com/blogs/magazine/what-is-vegan-leather-made-of-and-is-it-sustainable> accessed 12 April 2024.

Ananas Anam, ‘FAQs – Piñatex’ (Ananas-anam.com, 2019) <https://www.ananas-anam.com/faqs/> accessed 12 April 2024.

Sustainable Jungle Team, ‘Cactus Leather: A Sustainable Vegan Solution or a Prickly Subject?’ (Sustainable jungle, 25 February 2023) <https://www.sustainablejungle.com/sustainable-fashion/cactus-leather/> accessed 12 April 2024.

[61] ibid.

[62] ibid.

[63] Declan Wiseman, ‘Is Second Hand Leather Ethical? Here’s What a Vegan Thinks’ (Green Heart Collective) <https://www.greenheartcollective.uk/blogs/news/can-wearing-second-hand-leather-be-ethical> accessed 12 April 2024.

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